A sacred temple in Punakha is doing more than preserving tradition; it is helping dozens of families earn a living. In Barp Gewog, the number of handicraft shops has grown from just a few in the late 1990s to more than forty today. The growth is largely driven by tourists visiting Chimi Lhakhang, the historic fertility temple associated with Lam Drukpa Kuenley.
Most shops are clustered at Chimipang, along the road to the temple. The rest are spread across Sobsokha and Yuwaka villages.
Few shop owners are originally from the area. Most have come from other districts, drawn by the opportunity to earn a living.
The shops carry a wide variety of items. Hand-woven Bhutanese textiles, wood-carvings and hand-painted portraits line the shelves.
The shops near Chimi Lhakhang are also known for their distinctive phallus-themed souvenirs, reflecting the temple’s connection with Lam Drukpa Kuenley. These symbolic products are among the most popular purchases for visiting tourists.
For most shop owners, income follows the tourist season. The peak seasons bring strong sales.
“During these peak seasons, we earn around Nu 40,000 to 50,000 per month. Without tourists, we would struggle to survive and might even go hungry. So far, we have been fully dependent on income from tourists to make a living,” said Kinley Wangmo.
“During the peak season, sometimes I can even earn Nu 100,000 in a day, while at other times I earn up to Nu 30,000 a day. In fact, business depends on the luck of the day,” said Dorji Pelden.
“We have lived happily so far and have not faced any situation where we were unable to repay our loans with the income from this business. Our business has been running successfully, and we are earning well from it. Therefore, we are able to live comfortably because of the income from our business,” said Tendel Tshering.
“As per our calculation, we earn a maximum of around Nu 80,000 per month. Tourism is directly benefiting our people, especially those of us who depend on handicraft work,” said Kinga, a handicraft artist.
However, not everything is smooth. Several business owners raise a concern that is quietly affecting the business: a shortage of authentic Bhutanese handicraft products. Many say it’s increasingly difficult to source locally made items.
To keep the trade alive, artisans and shop owners say the government must support local production and encourage more young people to take up traditional crafts.
“It would make a big difference if the government could help us source handicraft items from within Bhutan, instead of having to import them. If we could buy authentic Bhutanese products wholesale from local suppliers, that would benefit everyone in this trade,” added Dorji Pelden.
At a Meet the Press session last year, the Home Affairs Minister said that the ministry and the Handicrafts Association of Bhutan are working together to support artisans by formulating policies that protect them from competition and promote Bhutanese handmade products.
While challenges remain, artisans and handicraft shop owners remain hopeful. With continued support and a steady flow of visitors, they believe they can protect both their livelihoods and the rich cultural heritage that draws people here in the first place.
Changa Dorji, Punakha
Edited by Sonam Pem
