Cordyceps, a rare fungus, has transformed lives in Lunana since its harvest was legalised in 2004 under the Royal Command of His Majesty the Fourth Druk Gyalpo. For the highland communities, it remains a lifeline. Every year, as they prepare for a bumper harvest, there is a growing concern about encroachment by outsiders. A bumper harvest occurs once every four years, and this year is one such season. Our reporter Devika Pradhan visited Lunana last month and brings us this report.
Fangu, a vast snow-and-ice plateau about five hours’ walk from Thangza, is at the centre of this anticipation.
It is known for producing the highest-value cordyceps in Bhutan. And locals say such abundance comes only once in four years, calling it a “bumper harvest season.”
For the people of Lunana, this season represents opportunity, income and survival.
“Today, the way we dress and live is comparable to people in towns, all because of cordyceps. In the past, we wore clothes made from animal skins and wool. Now, with His Majesty’s blessing to harvest cordyceps, development in Lunana has increased manyfold,” said Namgay Dorji, Thangza-Toenchoe, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
“In terms of food, clothing, and housing, life in Lunana has improved significantly. Even our roofs are now made of aluminium, like in the lowlands. Today, our livelihoods have improved significantly. We can sustain ourselves with dignity, all thanks to the opportunity granted by His Majesty the fourth Druk Gyalpo,” said Nima Dorji, Thangza-Toenchoe Tshogpa, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
But the season also brings pressure. As word spreads of a good harvest, outsiders attempt to encroach, leading to disputes.
“During bumper harvest years, people from other areas come in large numbers. From places where we once collected about a kilogram, we now struggle to get even half a kilogram. While we are hopeful this season, we are equally worried about encroachment,” said Nima Dorji, Thangza-Toenchoe Tshogpa, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
“Without cordyceps, there is no point in staying in Lunana. We grow crops like radish and potatoes, but selling them requires a week-long journey, and there is no way that we can cover the chopper expenses with that amount. So, cordyceps sustains us. But now, people from Sephu come in large numbers. So, the quantity of cordyceps has also decreased,” said Selki Dorji, Thangza-Toenchoe, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
38-year-old Samdrup, who has been collecting cordyceps since he was 12, shares a mixture of excitement and anxiety for the upcoming season.
“Although I am excited and looking forward to this year’s harvest, I am equally worried,” said Samdrup Tshering, Thangza-Toenchoe, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
And the concern is not without reason.
During the last bumper season in 2022, an illegal collector lost his life. In a separate incident, a group of illegal collectors attacked and injured army personnel.
People say such incidents highlight the need for stricter monitoring.
“If the respective districts and gewogs could monitor and enforce the rules more stringently, it would greatly benefit us. Otherwise, our collections will keep declining. Although there are some changes in Lunana, that is nothing compared to other places. His Majesty’s permit to collect cordyceps is like a blessing in disguise for us. However, the encroachment of people from other areas has endangered that. The places in Fangu that we collected cordyceps worth two million, we can hardly get cordyceps worth five to six hundred thousand now,” said Samdrup Tshering, Thangza-Toenchoe, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
Despite repeated warnings, attempts to enter illegally continue. Earlier this month, 18 people from Dangchhu Gewog in Wangdue Phodrang were suspected of attempting illegal collection. The group had travelled to Chumdue in Lunana by private helicopter before the official collection period. Forestry officials and local leaders have since sent them back.
With such cases on the rise, the Prime Minister, during a briefing last month, directed local leaders to take accountability for monitoring the collection process.
Meanwhile, families are already moving closer to collection sites. In Tenchoe, residents of Uesana village have been camping for over a month now, preparing for the season.
“We have high hopes for better-quality cordyceps this year, although nothing is guaranteed. We have come with children, but we are hopeful. As long as we can pitch the tent, we will keep the children in the tent, and my husband and I will go out to collect,” said Tshering Lham, Raminang-Uesana, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
“Cordyceps has benefited everyone here. Earlier, even food was scarce. But with His Majesty’s Kidu, our lives have improved. Some families have even been able to buy houses in Punakha. Since this season comes only once every four years, I have high expectations and will give it my best,” said Kencho Tshering, Raminang-Uesana, Lunana Gewog, Gasa.
The Lunana Gewog Administration had planned to issue the permits for cordyceps collection this week. But the date has been pushed.
“Firstly, owing to the changing weather patterns, it has been snowing in the mountains, and the cordyceps have not grown yet. Secondly, the patrolling personnel arrived late, along with the permits. Hence, we have decided to issue the permits on the 30th of this month,” said Kaka, Lunana Gup, Gasa.
Authorities will step up monitoring during the collection period. 21 personnel will patrol the area, and cameras will be installed along the collection routes.
With concerns over illegal collection, authorities say this year’s collection will be closely monitored. Under the 2026 Cordyceps Collection Rules and Regulations, permits are valid only for designated sites and for one month from the date of issue.
Anyone found collecting without authorisation will face fines equivalent to 12 months of the daily minimum wage.
And for the people of Lunana, everything will now depend on the weeks ahead.
Devika Pradhan, Lunana
Edited by Sonam Pem
