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Tha Namkhai Dzong: A sacred pilgrim site in Dagana

April 23, 2023
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Dagana is known for its many sacred sites, each of which has a unique history and cultural significance. One such revered site is the Tha Namkhai Dzong located in Dagana’s Laja Gewog. Although the exact century or year of its construction remains unknown, it is believed that the sacred site was sanctified by the revered Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century.

Overlooking the serene Thasa Chiwog, this holy site is situated around three hours’ walk from Burichhu and is easily accessible from the Tsirang-Wangdue Phodrang highway.

Devotees now have to walk for around 30 minutes from Burichhu before taking a one-hour drive to reach the holy site.

Located at a distance of an archery range from the nearest footpath, the Tha Namkhai Dzong is a holy site that features a religious bell hanging from a cliff.

However, finding the bell with the naked eye can be challenging, which is why the Dagana District Administration has placed a binocular at the site to help devotees locate it easily.

Once the binocular is positioned and focused, one can see the bell and urn or Thro above it. Additionally, the sound of the bell can be heard when the wind hits the clapper of the bell.

Lam Gyembo Dorji of Doonglagang Gewog in Tsirang, shared with BBS that there isn’t much written about the sacred site.

“The shape of the entire cliff is in the form of a Dzong, which could be the reason why a religious bell hangs from the Dzong, similar to what is seen in Dzongs across the country,” said Gyembo Dorji.

“In the past, only those who were fortunate or had a deep devotion to Guru Rinpoche could easily locate and hear the sound of the religious bell. Some visitors would have to recite Baza Guru prayers several times before hearing the bell’s sound, and unfortunately, some would leave without fulfilling their wish,” said Khandu, the caretaker of Tha Namkhai Dzong.

According to local beliefs, the entire cliff at Tha Namkhai Dzong is said to contain treasure or Ter. It is believed that the key to the Ter has been left in Demi Tsho, a lake located in the Sunkosh River near Burichhu.

“Local lore suggests that the Tsirang Toed Gewog, which is located opposite Tha Namkhai Dzong, is home to a Dakini or Khandom Ney. According to the legend, the key to the Tha Namkhai Dzong was submerged in the Sunkosh River when Guru Rinpoche was flying towards Tsirang Toed. It is believed that accomplished religious masters may rediscover the treasure in the future,” said Gyembo Dorji.

On the return journey from the Tha Namkhai Dzong, devotees are greeted with two more pilgrim sites in Thasa village called Zhabjethang and Khandu Chhag Phuelsa.

Visitors can also marvel at the footprints of different animals on rocks and stones, as well as seven seats on a rock where Dakinis have prostrated to the Tha Namkhai Dzong.

Despite the site being relatively unknown outside of the area, devotees from nearby gewogs in Dagana and a few neighbouring districts like Tsirang visit the site during auspicious holidays.

“This religious site is truly amazing. Although I had seen pictures of the bell and heard about its sacredness long ago, I was unable to visit until now. Being able to see and hear the bell in person has left me feeling accomplished and spiritually fulfilled,” said Chozang Dema, a devotee.

“After the completion of the farm road construction connecting Burichhu, visiting the sacred site has become more convenient for devotees compared to the past. In the past, some devotees were unable to hear the sound of the religious bell, but our team was fortunate to hear the bell during our visit today,” said Sangay Khandu, another devotee.

The journey to the Tha Namkhai Dzong can be challenging for devotees as the road beyond Thasa village is narrow and bumpy, making it unsuitable for small vehicles.

Due to the rough terrain, devotees have called for an improvement in the road to make the journey smoother and more accessible.

The chiwog has proposed a budget for the road improvement work in the 13th Five-Year Plan.

“The Dzongkhag Administration has agreed to support the road improvement works. I have been following up and enquiring about budget estimates for the road widening works. The Gewog Administration has proposed Nu 1.1 M for the road widening project,” said Krishna Bdr Subba, Thasa Tshogpa.

With visitors to the sacred site increasing, the Dagana District Culture sector in collaboration with Laja Gewog Administration plans to construct a new Lhakhang in Thasa.

The district culture officer said people will be encouraged to construct homestays in Thasa for visitors.

Pema Tshewang, Dagana

Edited by Sherub Dorji

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